Items tagged with: Raspberry
"Trump’s new Cuba crackdown puts US at odds with Canada and Europe"
yeah, america should definitely be more like europe right now #raspberry et la france sent le bœuf et le fromage. if america is looking for a country to act as a good role model, then it is pretty fucked right now.
"Trump’s new Cuba crackdown puts US at odds with Canada and Europe"
yeah, america should definitely be more like europe right now #raspberry et la france sent le bœuf et le fromage. if america is looking for a country to act as good role model, then it is pretty fucked right now.
Defekten #Commodore #C64 mit #RaspberryPi und #Combian64 wieder flott gemacht
#vice #vice64 #retro #retrocomputer #raspberry #raspi #8bit #gaming #quickshot #joystick #combian #brotkasten #amiga #8bitcomputer #keyrah #hardware #hacking #recycling #upcycling #retrogaming
Allerdings war meine eigene Implementierung eher so lala, denn sie basierte auf einer Desktop-Lösung, bei welcher der Client eigentlich nur gestartet wurde, wenn ich mal daran gedacht habe und der PC online war. So kommen die Projekte nicht vom Fleck, das beste Verteilungsverhältnis lag irgendwo bei 3. Das geht besser!
Auf der Suche nach etwas leistungsfähigerem und ökologisch verantwortbarem bin ich in meiner Infrastruktur auf einen unterbeschäftigten #Raspberry #Pi gestossen, welcher im 24x7-Betrieb läuft und einen Standalone-Client für #BitTorrent problemlos zusätzlich übernehmen kann. Done.
Als Datenträger hatte ich noch einen 32G USB-Stick rumliegen, was etwas dünn ist für ambitioniertes Projekte-Hosting. Aber hier liegen auch noch diverse SATA-Festplatten und SSDs rum. Hab zwar noch keinen Schimmer, wie man die an den Pi anklemmen kann, aber eine erste Recherche zeigt eine Vielzahl von Möglichkeiten. Es wird also nicht langweilig...
Have you ever been interested in monitoring the air quality in your home or outside where you live and work? This project, which we’ve dubbed balenaSense, will get you up and running with a setup to…
HN Discussion: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=19506983
Posted by alexandros (karma: 11809)
Post stats: Points: 137 - Comments: 43 - 2019-03-27T22:46:24Z
#HackerNews #air #and #build #docker #grafana #influxdb #monitor #quality #raspberry #with
Have you ever been interested in monitoring the air quality in your home or outside where you live and work? This project, which we’ve dubbed balenaSense, will get you up and running with a setup to take readings of temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, and air quality, and provide a dashboard that you can access from anywhere to see the stats at a glance and monitor trends.
Table of contents
Building an air quality & weather station used to involve a lot of wiring and different sensors, but with the advent of sensors that combine all the readings into one component on a nice little breakout board, it’s easy to get started.
We’re going to look at monitoring temperature, humidity, barometric pressure and air quality using an all-in-one sensor that connects directly to a Raspberry Pi with no additional components required. You don’t need any experience in electronics but a soldering iron would be handy (although not required). This project implements a database to store historic readings along with a graphical interface to see current readings and trends at a glance.
Here’s the shopping list for this project. Depending if you’d like to crack out the soldering iron or not will dictate what sensor board you can use; some are plug and play, some require a little soldering.
I donʼt want to solder
If you donʼt want to solder, youʼll need:
I want to solder - let me at it!
If youʼre happy doing a little soldering, youʼll need:
If you already have one, this project also supports the use of the Sense HAT, with the added bonus that youʼll get a smiley face showing on the LED matrix (depending on the air quality, of course)!
You can get hold of the Bosch BME680 sensor on a breakout board from a variety of vendors too, all at varying costs.
Note: The Pimoroni breakout board is the one we’ve used in this article; this board has the added benefit that the pins are broken out in the correct order to just plug straight into the Raspberry Pi GPIO header. When using other boards you’ll need to be careful to ensure the pins for power, ground and the I2C bus (SDA and SCL) are matched - this is explained further on in the guide.
We’ve set up the balena-sense project on GitHub which contains all of the software, configuration and code you’ll need to start taking readings straight away. We’re going to deploy this project on balenaCloud using a free account to push the project and all the software to your Raspberry Pi as well as to provide remote access. Therefore, you’ll need:
Putting the hardware together
You’ve got very little to do on the hardware front for this project; our goal here is to connect the sensor board you purchased to the Raspberry Pi general purpose input/output (GPIO) header.
The BME680 sensor communicates with the Raspberry Pi over a bus called I2C (eye-squared-see), which is a serial communication bus that requires 2 wires. These two communication wires are referred to as serial clock (SCK) and serial data (SDA). In addition to the two communication wires, we also need to provide the sensor with power (3.3V, or 3V3) and ground.
If you went for the solder-free option from Pimoroni or Sparkfun, or are using the Sense HAT, you’ll just have to plug your shiny new components together along with your Raspberry Pi, and all of the connections will be made for you - go forth, to the next step!
If you decided to connect a sensor directly to your Raspberry Pi, either the Pimoroni one or any one of the other breakout boards from one of the other suppliers, the main things to watch out for are that the pins described above (SDA, SCK, 3V3 and GND) are correctly connected.
A useful site for working with the GPIO header on your Raspberry Pi is pinout.xyz; it clearly shows us that the pins we need are 1 (3V3 power), 3 (SDA), 5 (SCL), and 9 (Ground). The 40 pin GPIO header is standard across the Pi 2 and later. You’ll notice that if you’re using the Pimoroni board and solder on the included header, the pins are in exactly the right order to connect the boards together. Notice how the writing on the board matches the pins in the pinout diagram above.
However, if you connect the sensor like this you may find the readings are affected by the heat from the Raspberry Pi CPU; more accurate readings can be taken by extending the sensor away from the board, which can be achieved using male-to-female Dupont cables (or Jumper Jerky), as below:
Similarly, if you’re using one of the other sensors where the pinout diagrams do not match exactly, you can connect these boards to your Pi using the same method, ensuring that you match up 3V3, SDA, SCL, and GND. Your board may also have pins for SDI, SDO, CS - you can ignore these and leave them unconnected as they’re used for an alternative serial peripheral interface (SPI) to the sensor which we’re not using in this project.
In the photos above we’re using a Raspberry Pi 3A+, but you can use a Pi Zero as pictured at the start of the guide for a lower cost solution.
Setting up the Raspberry Pi
We’re going to flash an SD card with balenaOS via a download from the balenaCloud dashboard and add the device in order to push the project, and set things up in such a way it can easily be updated later.
The first thing to do is to get set up with a balenaCloud account; this means signing up if you haven’t already, adding an application and adding a device.
Step 1 - Sign up to balenaCloud
The first thing you’ll need to do is sign up for an account. If you’ve already got a GitHub or Google account you can use that to login and bypass the signup process.
Sign up here
Step 2 - Create an application
Add an application selecting the correct device type for the device you’re using, and choosing Starter as the application type, then hit Create New Application. Using the starter application will provide you with all of the features of the microservices application and is free up to and including your tenth device.
This will take you to the dashboard for your newly created application, where you can move on to the next step and add your device. The name you give your application is up to you, but youʼll need it later on in the guide when you push your code.
Step 3 - Add a device and download the OS
Once your application has been created, you can setup and add a device within that application by clicking the green ʼadd deviceʼ button. When you add a device you specify your device type, which is important that it matches the device you’re using, and if you are connecting to a wireless network you can set your WiFI SSID and passphrase here too.
This process creates a customized image configured for your application and device type and includes your network settings if you specified them.
Note: When youʼre first getting started, a development image will be most useful, as it permits a number of testing and troubleshooting features. More details on the differences between development and production images can be found here. If youʼre confident you can go ahead and deploy the production image straight away -- thatʼs what Iʼm running.
Step 4 - Flash your SD card and boot the device
Once the OS image has been downloaded, it’s time to flash your SD card. You can use balenaEtcher for this.
Once the flashing process has completed, insert your SD card into the Raspberry Pi and connect the power supply.
When the device boots for the first time, it connects to the balenaCloud dashboard, after which you’ll be able to see it listed as online and move onto the next step.
Troubleshooting: It should only take a few minutes for the new device to appear in your dashboard, If your device still hasnʼt shown up on your dashboard after a few minutes, something has gone wrong. Thereʼs an extensive troubleshooting guide in the documentation, with lots of information on why this could be, but if you still canʼt get your device online, come on over to the forums where we’ll be able to help out.
Deploying the software
Now that your Raspberry Pi has been provisioned, has booted, and connected to balenaCloud, youʼre ready to push the application code to the device.
Installing the balena CLI tools
If you already have (or can setup) npm on your machine, this is most likely the easiest way to get the CLI tools up and running quickly. However, there are also standalone binaries for Windows, macOS and Linux available. Note: if youʼve already installed these tools to complete another of our projects, you donʼt need to do this part again - skip directly to the next step.
The documentation for the CLI tools is the best place to start and covers the installation and setup of both the npm package and the standalone binaries.
When you have the CLI installed and working, the first step is to login to balenaCloud by issuing the balena login command:
Once you’ve reached this point, and have a working CLI which has been logged in to your account, youʼre ready to start pushing code to your Raspberry Pi.
Downloading the project from GitHub
The next step is to download the code for this project from GitHub. Go to: https://github.com/balena-io-projects/balena-sense/ and download the project.
The blue button will download a .zip file of the project which youʼll need to unzip, but if youʼre already familiar with Git you can use git clone in the normal way.
Pushing the project code to your Raspberry Pi
As you have the CLI setup and the latest code downloaded, you can now execute a single command to push that code to balenaCloud which in turn builds the Docker image and handles the process of setting it up and running it on your device.
From within the unzipped project directory, execute balena push , where appName is the application name you set back at the beginning of the guide. For example: balena push balenaSense.
If everything worked out correctly, after a few minutes your device information screen in the dashboard should look something like this, showing the services running, one for each of the software components.
When you push the code for the first time it can take a few minutes to download (dependant on your internet connection speed) but after that, only the changes in the container are downloaded so things happen much quicker.
Note: that when the application first starts (and youʼre using the BME680 rather than the Sense HAT) the sensor performs a ‘burn-in’ over a 5-minute period. Readings will not be taken and readings not inserted into the database during this period. The application will log a countdown, which you can see within the balenaCloud dashboard as per the below screenshot:
After the countdown has reached zero, you’ll see a message that says ‘Starting loop…` and readings will now be taken and inserted into the database every 10 seconds.
Viewing the dashboard
Hopefully you got your device flashed, connected to your network and up and running without too much trouble. One of the great benefits of using a free balenaCloud account is that you’re able to use the Public Device URL feature.
Enable this toggle on your device and click the blue arrow to access the dashboard; you can share this link or bookmark it for use from your phone or another mobile device. As long as your balenaSense device is online and working, you’ll be able to access your dashboard from anywhere!
If you don’t want to enable the public device access, you can still view the dashboard from within your own local network by using the IP address value from the image above. Yours will be different, but if you enter http:// into a browser, you’ll still be able to access the dashboard as long as you’re on the same network as the device. For example, to access my device I would use http://10.1.231.36.
If youʼd like to log in to Grafana and start playing with the settings, the default credentials are admin and admin.
How does it work?
This project has 3 main components, which are separated into 3 services. These are the names of the services you’ll see on your balenaCloud dashboard:
* InfluxDB - A database, used for storing sensor readings * Sensor - The Python library and code for accessing the sensor, taking readings and saving them in the database * Grafana - Used for creating a dashboard with graphs & reports
The BME680 sensor from Bosch gives us readings for temperature, humidity, pressure and a gas content reading provided in terms of resistance. The sensors for temperature, humidity, and pressure give us useful readings out of the box, but the gas resistance reading on its own is not a lot of use. It gives us an indication of the change in compounds in the air, so when the sensor application starts, it sets a baseline and monitors change. The indicative air quality reading is given in percentage and takes into account the effect of humidity and gas reading.
If youʼre using the Sense HAT, which doesnʼt have a gas sensor, weʼve approximated the air quality reading using target values for temperature and humidity.
So by now hopefully you’ve got the project fully up and running, have accessed the dashboard and have been taking readings and filling up your database. Here are a few more things to take a look at before you move on to the next project.
Change the password
If you’re leaving your device publically accessible, it’s a good idea to change the password for Grafana.
We’ve set the system up with a default username and password of admin and admin. You can change this by logging into Grafana using the button in the lower left corner of the dashboard; you’ll be prompted to change it upon first login.
The dashboard & reporting software we’re using, Grafana, has a lot of configuration options and settings for you to play with. We’ve set up a basic dashboard that gives you a gauge and a graph for each of the 4 readings that we’re taking.
You can customize each panel on Grafana after you’ve logged in by hovering over the title and going to edit. I recommend having a play with the options - the changes to your dashboard are not saved automatically so if you make a mistake you can reload the page and everything will revert to how it was. If you make some changes you want to keep, hit save at the top of the dashboard and all of your settings will be saved to your device.
You can customize the gauges too; for example on the pressure gauge, we’ve set up some basic bands and text values to replace the numbers. You’re free to edit all these to whatever works for you!
Build a housing
Sensors like this ideally like to be housed in a radiation shield (sometimes called a Stevenson Screen), to prevent sunlight and radiated heat affecting the readings. If you’re monitoring the environment indoors, it isn’t quite so critical, but if you’re monitoring outdoors, positioning and protecting the sensor is important to get accurate readings.
Commercial radiation shields are available, such as this one from Davis, but can be quite expensive, so there are DIY options around too.
There are a few different options for BME680 housings and Stevenson screens on Thingiverse; take a look and see if any of the designs will work for your application.
Thanks for reading! If you decided to build your own air quality monitor, we’d love to hear how it went, similarly if you got stuck, have any questions or just have some suggestions for future development of the project, let us know in our forums at https://forums.balena.io, on Twitter @balena_io, on Instagram @balena_io or on Facebook.
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Bastelprojekt #Phoniebox für meinen jüngsten zum Geburtstag.
Eine kleine #Musikbox für #Hörspiele, #Musikstreams (#youtube, #Radio, #Spotify mit addon)
die Musikstücke werden in Ordner auf der SD kopiert und den Ordner weist man eine #RFID Karte zu.
Wird die Karte über den Leser gehalten wird der Ordner abgespielt.
Das ganze läuft über einen #Raspberry eine USB Soundkarte und ein paar USB Brüllwürfel
Der Strom (2A Netzteil )reicht um alles über den Raspi zu versorgen so muss man nichts löten und basteln
einfach zusammenstecken und die "fertige" Software runterladen und installieren.
Karten anlernen und zuweisen kann man per #Webinterface, ebenso abspielen, steuern, Laustärke, Shutdown usw..
Knöpfe kann man per #GPIO anbinden, muss man aber nicht, man kann auch Steuerkarten anlernen.
Kosten tut das je nachdem was man so zu Hause noch liegen hat ~ 100 Euro
Komplette Stückliste von meiner Box ist hier:
- 13,95 Euro Große Holzkiste mit Deckel Holzbox Erinnerungsbox | 30 x 20 x 14 cm
- 9,99 Euro Trust Leto 2.0 USB Lautsprecher Set (6 Watt, 3,5mm, USB-Stromversorgung, für PC, Laptop, Tablet und Smartphone) schwarz
- 6,25 Euro CSL - Externe USB Soundkarte mit Virtual Surround Sound, Plug & Play
- 19,99 Euro KKmoon IC Kartenlesegerät Berührungslose 14443A Kartenleser Card Reader mit USB Schnittstelle 5pcs Karten + 5pcs Schlüsselanhänger 13.56MHZ RFID
- 14,99 Euro Babysicherheit Magnetisches Schrankschloss 10 Schlösser mit 2 Schlüssel, unsichtbare Magnetschloss für Schrank und Schubladen, ohne Bohren und Schrauben, Installationschablone enthalten - TimberRain // Rest wird dringend benötigt 😉
- ~ 50 Euro Raspberry Pi X // hier Model B+ V1.2, war vorhanden
- ~ 12 Euro Edimax N300 1T2R Wireless USB adapter with 3dBi Antenna // lag auch noch rum
- 15,97 Euro Set mit 24 Acrylfarben von Zenacolor - 24 Tuben je 12 ml
- 2,99 Euro 2 von Marabu 0012010050090 - Acryl Color, 100 ml, hellblau // VIEL ZU VIEL, eine reicht DICKE
- 6,98 Euro Pinsel Sets, Morkia 10 Stücke Nylon Künstlerpinsel und 2 Paletten
- 11,29 Euro OBO HANDS 13.56Mhz RFID Karte MF S50 Proximity IC Smart Card Tag 0.8mm Dünn für Access Control System ISO14443A (MF Classic 1K) (20 Stück)
- 6,60 Euro Herma 4360 Universal Etiketten (70 x 36 mm) weiß, 600 Adressaufkleber, 25 Blatt A4 Premium Papier matt, bedruckbar, selbstklebend
- 5 Euro Lüftergitter 50x50mm 5cm verchromt metal steel fan grill RepRap Prusa i3 Lüfter // hatt ich auch noch von Netzteilen
- ---------- Alles in allem
- 175 Euro
Bin großer Freund der RSS-Technologie, weil dort ich entscheide, was ich lese - und nicht irgendein Algorithmus eines Datenkraken.
Ich war aber nicht mehr zufrieden mit dem Client, kam von #Akregator (veraltet) über #FeedBro (instabil) jetzt zu FreshRSS. Dies ist kein Client, sondern ein Server mit Webinterface, was erstmal gewöhnungsbedürftig ist. Aber es hat als Server viele Vorteile, besonders weil das Sync zwischen unterschiedlichen Clients entfällt.
Das Teil bietet auch die Möglichkeit, unterschiedliche User zu bedienen. Dazu kann ich aber nichts sagen, bin alleine drauf.
Derzeit läuft das auf einem #Raspberry Pi 2, welcher damit aber hoffnungslos unterfordert ist.
Installation war kein Ding - wenn man es richtig macht 😉
Bin sehr zufrieden und möchte das empfehlen...
A new installer lets you put Windows 10 on Arm, including the the Raspberry Pi 3.
Article word count: 208
HN Discussion: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=19154346
Posted by cwt137 (karma: 198)
Post stats: Points: 111 - Comments: 82 - 2019-02-13T16:41:06Z
#HackerNews #can #now #raspberry #run #the #windows #you
Raspberry Pi 3. Credit: Raspberry PiRaspberry Pi 3. Credit: Raspberry Pi
Raspberry Pi is finally ready for the full Windows 10 experience. A new installer lets you put Windows 10 on Arm, including the Pi. And itʼs made by the same people who got Windows 10 on Arm onto Lumia 950 and 950 XL handset. Windows Latest first reported the news.
You can find the Github page here, in which developer Jose Manuel Nieto Sanchez call the tool "super easy to use" and "no-hassle." It requires a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B or B+, a microSD card (he recommends an A1 rating) and a Windows 10ARM64 image, which is linked to from the page where you get the download instructions.
The installer needs a set of binaries, the Core Package, to run. Nieto Sanchez is quick to point out that "these binaries are not not mine [emphasis his] and are bundled and offered just for convenience to make your life easier, since this tool is focused on simplicity."
Previously, the only way to run Windows at all was by using Windows IoT Core, but Windows 10 on ARM may be far more capable. We plan on giving this a try ourselves soon, although we donʼt hold out much hope for speedy boot times and a super-snappy experience.
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The Raspberry Pi Foundation just unveiled a brand new project — an actual store. If you live in Cambridge in the U.K., you can now buy a bunch of sweet Raspberry Pis with which to tinker and develop…
Article word count: 245
HN Discussion: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=19131917
Posted by longdefeat (karma: 529)
Post stats: Points: 125 - Comments: 54 - 2019-02-11T03:49:06Z
#HackerNews #apple #cooler #much #raspberry #store #than #the
The Raspberry Pi Foundation just unveiled a brand new project — an actual store. If you live in Cambridge in the U.K., you can now buy a bunch of sweet Raspberry Pis with which to tinker and develop some cool stuff.
The Raspberry Pi has always been about making coding more accessible. And a physical retail space fits the bill. The foundation has developed a lineup of insanely cheap computers with an ARM-based processor, a bunch of ports, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.
The latest flagship model, the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+, costs only $35. But if you want something smaller and cheaper, there are other models for various needs.
Maybe you just need a tiny computer for some Internet-of-Things project. You can opt for the Raspberry Pi 3 Model A+ for $25 in that case. It has a bit less RAM and fewer ports, but it works pretty much like any Raspberry Pi. There’s also power-efficient models that cost less than $10 — the Raspberry Pi Zero models.
I never really thought about Raspberry Pi stores. But the introduction video makes a strong case in favor of such a store. The product lineup is getting a bit complicated and it’s always good to be able to talk to someone about your projects.
Moreover, the foundation can use this store as a showcase for some cool examples. You can also buy goodies, such as mugs and plushy toys. The white-and-red keyboard and mouse look cool, too.
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Lokale Hörspiele (Musik) auf Alexa abspielen
Oliver A. wrote the following post Sun, 10 Feb 2019 01:16:28 +0100
Lokale Hörspiele (Musik) auf Alexa abspielen
Mein Junior hat meinen alten #Echo Dot Gen1 angegriffen und dudelt da seinen Lieblingssender
(Radio Teddy), jetzt fragt er ob er da nicht auch seine Hörspiele hören kann.
Tjoa, hier liegen einige gesammelte Werke rum, warum eigentlich nicht.
Gar nicht so einfach, Alexa macht ja eigentlich alles nur über die Cloud und Amazon hat sein Angebot zwecks speichern und abspielen von eigenen mp3 über die Bibliothek eingestellt.
Das einzige was ich gefunden habe und was auch nicht schlecht funktioniert ist der Skill MyMedia (Meine Medien).
Für die Umsetzung benötigt man einen eigenen lokalen Server(kann auch ein #Raspberry Pi) der die Verbindung zwischen #Skill (Amazon) und eigenem Lan hält. die Serverkomponente gibt es für reichlich Betriebssysteme hier:
Auf dem Server gibt man Watchfolder an die gescannt werden um diese dann automatisch in Albums, Songs und Playlisten anzulegen welche dann per Alexa abgerufen werden können.
Ich habe noch eine VM mit etwas Platz und hab die Serverkomponente unter einem LXC-Ubuntu auf dem NAS installiert. Die Hörbücher/Musik liegt ja eh auf dem #NAS und wird per Mount dem Medienserver zur Verfügung gestellt.
Im Unterschied zu Musik sind Hörbücher etwas schwerer zu handlen als Musik, hier muss die Abspielposition gespeichert werden und es darf keine zufallswiedergabe stattfinden.
Bei den Alben kann der Typ daher explizit auf #Audiobook gesetzt werden.
Beides löst der Meine Medien Server perfekt. mit "Alexa starte meine Medien und lies Harry Potter" startet man das passende Audiobook. Stoppt man die wiedergabe wird man beim nächsten aufruf gefragt ob man weiter hören möchte oder von vorne anfangen will.
Über Overrides kann man auch abweichende Album Titel auf andere gesprochene Eingaben umlegen, was ganz praktisch ist, man muss also nicht mp3tag bemühen und die Album Tags umschreiben.
Testen kann man das ganze 7 Tage kostenfrei, und eine Jahres Subscription die sich nicht selbst verlängert kostet sagenhafte 5,95 Euro für einen Single Server und 2 Accounts.
Founder Eben Upton says the shop will attract customers who are "curious" about the tiny computer.
Article word count: 342
HN Discussion: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=19104112
Posted by hardmaru (karma: 2145)
Post stats: Points: 118 - Comments: 44 - 2019-02-07T09:41:04Z
#HackerNews #cambridge #first #high #opens #raspberry #store #street
Raspberry Pi Image copyright Raspberry Pi Image caption Computer firm Raspberry Pi is opening its first store, in Cambridge
The team behind the pocket-sized Raspberry Pi computer is opening its first high street store in the city where it was invented.
In a move bucking the online retail trend, the company will open an "experimental space" in Cambridge.
The firm will also now offer a new starter kit of parts - to accompany the popular tiny computer.
Founder Eben Upton said he hoped the shop would attract customers who were "curious" about the brand.
Image copyright Raspberry Pi
Image caption An official keyboard and mouse will be sold at the store as part of a starter kit for programmers
The store opens in Cambridgeʼs Grand Arcade shopping centre on Thursday.
It will offer merchandise and advice on the use of the popular computer, which measures 3.4in by 2.1in (8.6cm by 5.3cm) and is designed to encourage people to try coding and programming.
Image copyright Raspberry Pi
Image caption The store will offer merchandise as well as a starter kit for new Raspberry Pi users
The computer was the brainchild of the Raspberry Pi Foundation, established by a group of Cambridge scientists in 2006.
Raspberry Pi - which resembles a motherboard with ports and chips exposed - was launched in 2012, principally as an educational tool for programming.
It has now sold 25 million units globally and remains the best selling British computer.
Image copyright Raspberry Pi Foundation
Image caption Previous Pi models have required owners to find their own accessories including a mouse and keyboard
Mr Upton, chief executive of Raspberry Pi Trading, said the store would give "a loyal and highly engaged community" another way to interact with the company and its products.
"Thereʼs always a risk you can get complacent about your customers, but a physical store means we have a place for people, who are curious about Raspberry Pi, to experience it," he said.
The new all-in-one Raspberry Pi starter kit will include a mouse, keyboard and cables.
Mr Upton said it contained everything "apart from the television".
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Spaß mit einem #Raspberry Pi, #Audio #DAC und einem alten #Hameg #Oszilloskop 😀
Und sorry für das Vertikal-Format - das Video war usprünglich für was anderes geplant.
Und ja, das #Stereo Audio-Signal geht direkt an die x/y Eingänge des Oszilloskops, die #Vektorgrafik ist im Sound enthalten (linker Kanal = horizontale Ablenkung, rechter Kanal = vertikale Ablenkung des Strahls).
Musik: "Shrooms" von Jerobeam Fenderson
#oscilloscopemusic #oscilloscope #mushrooms #shrooms #suptronics #x400
Pi Palette- Hacker's Cosmetics Case
by Naomi ‘SexyCyborg’ Wu
#video #raspberry #pi #computer #mini #miniComputer #kali #linux #makeup #cosmetic #disguise #disguised #hidden #hacker #electronic #electronics #maker #diy #project #art #cyberpunk #smart #creative
HN Discussion: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=19061656
Posted by thunderbong (karma: 395)
Post stats: Points: 134 - Comments: 69 - 2019-02-02T07:18:46Z
\#HackerNews #raspberry #the #whats #with #wrong
[IMG]The Raspberry Pi is an incredibly popular device that has a well deserved fame for its affordability, versatility, possibilities and vibrant community. It is easy to find fan projects and publications praising it, but most people are not aware of its weak points until they suffer them and come across the information on the forums.
I will try to explain some of the personal problems that I have with the Pi, as well as some of the issues people have all the time, most often without realizing it, and finally why I do not recommend it for some applications, specifically NAS kind of services such as NextCloudPi and Open Media Vault. Hopefully this will save me time in order to avoid repeating myself all over the forums.I have had many Raspberry Pis and I have been using them for many years. When the first model came up in 2012, it was a huge milestone for the hobbyist SBC market. Even though there were already some nice boards around, such as the Beagleboard and the Odroid, these were quite pricey and only hardcore hobbyists could understand what they could offer and justify the investment.The Pi though, came with a very affordable price tag. It was not that powerful compared to what we already had, but it was so cheap that it exploded in popularity. Blogs, shields and extensions, people sharing their projects, tons of libraries… the Raspberry Pi was the first one to achieve all that and to this day a thriving community is the biggest reason why I would understand people getting a Pi over other boards.
But this is 2019 now, so we can have another look around. In my opinion there is better quality and more open alternatives for the same price. I will try to explain.
The Raspberry managed to be that affordable by cutting some corners. The result is a board that is underpowered for some tasks compared to its competition. In particular, it performs poorly in terms of both network and USB functionality.
The device uses a SMSC LAN9514 chip that connects to the SoC via a single USB channel, acting as a USB-to-Ethernet adaptor and USB hub at the same time. This implies that Ethernet and USB are shared and are competing with each other, which ruins the typical NAS use case of uploading something over the network and storing it to a USB drive, let alone adding RAID to the mix.
For this same reason, even when last year they finally provided a model with Gigabit Ethernet, the real network performance of the device is nowhere close to real Gigabit performance, but around 40MB/s maximum in sheer networking speed, 20MB/s maximum if we are transfering to a USB device. There have been affordable boards with real Gigabit Ethernet for a while.
Actually Wi-Fi doesn’t go through the SMSC, but is connected to the BCM4343 chip through SDIO instead, so this bottleneck could somehow be avoided by using Wi-Fi. In any the wireless chip is not great either and would have to compete with other interfering devices in the surroundings for airtime anyway so it’s not a great alternative.
For the reasons stated above I would not recommend the pi to be used in a NAS kind of scenario, be it Open Media Vault or Nextcloud.
The real brain of the Pi is not open source
If you have been around software freedom discussions, the number one concern in our Linux systems is the presence of closed source binary blobs. I won’t go into details here but the concern is that those parts of your system can’t be audited and have access to everything that is going on in our devices. This has led to great efforts by the community, such as the Android Replicant to free our systems from any binary blobs, which is a painful, tedious and slow process.
We are in a similar situation with the Raspberry Pi. The CPU and the GPU are embedded in the same BCM2837B0 chip. The CPU is a 1400 MHz 64-bit quad core ARM A53 (in the Pi3B), and the GPU is a dual core 32-bit VideoCore IV running at 400MHz. This is common in the mobile device SoC world as saves cost and power and everything is embedded in the same chip. Freescale IMX and Allwinner are competitors using a similar approach.
So we have six cores in the latest Pi, but only four of them are ARM. Linux runs on that ARM CPU, we know that, but we might be surprised to learn that Linux on this device is only a second class citizen. The GPU cores run a real time operating system called ThreadX. This operating system is closed source and rules the system without the open source Linux Kernel being aware of it.
When the Raspberry Pi starts booting the CPU is completely disconnected (technically in reset state) and the GPU is the one that starts the system. You can have a look at the /boot folder and you will see some of the binary blobs used by the GPU to both start the CPU and run its own ThreadX OS (bootcode.bin and start.elf). You can learn more details about the boot process here.
It is the GPU who mounts the SDcard, gets those blobs and reads the configuration from that config.txt text file that we have to edit to configure video settings or overclocking the GPU. Linux is not involved in any of that.
After the GPU has the CPU load the Linux Kernel, it doesn’t just stay there waiting to act as a graphics-processing-unit. The GPU is still in charge. Have you ever thought about who is printing those logos when the Pi boots connected to HDMI? or those lightning or temperature symbols when there is throttling going on? Exactly, it is ThreadX on the GPU doing that. Linux is just not aware of this.
We cannot know everything the GPU is doing, but we do know some things that it is in charge of. The most relevant one for this discussion is that ThreadX monitors for undervoltage, which is a widespread issue as we will see next, and will underclock the CPU to prevent instructions failing and the CPU to hang, which results in people’s devices running at 600MHz instead of 1400MHz in the best case. This throttling starts happening at 4.65V and can also be triggered by temperature. Linux and its frequency governor still thinks that is happily running at full speed.This is only what we can see. Because the main OS is closed source we have not way of knowing what else it is doing or is capable of doing which will always be a concern for privacy aware individuals.
There is at least one patent included in the closed source blob that will prevent it from being released until at least 2025, but we don’t know if there is any intention of doing so even then. There have been attempts at reverse engineering the VideoCore IV and generating open source firmware for the VideoCore IV, but unfortunately the project died before getting to produce anything useful. Just like with Android blobs, this is incredibly hard work.
This is not a technical fault of the Raspberry Pi, but more of a very typical user mistake.
The first model barely used 80 mA, but each new generation is more powerful than the previous one, and for that reason also more power hungry. On top of that, many users connect USB devices that also draw power, unless they come with their own power supply.
The microUSB connector was only originally designed to provide 1.8A, and even though that is an old standard and you can find chargers that perform just fine at more than that, so many people try to reuse old phone 1A chargers or buy cheap adaptors online to power their Raspberry Pis. The Pi is a computer, it requires a good quality, stable power supply that provides a stable 5V at the input and is capable of providing 2.5A. Not only the transformer needs to be decent, but also the connection needs to be good (or there will be a voltage drop) but more importantly, the cable needs to be good, or there will be a big drop along it. Bad cables are even more typical to find than unstable voltage supplies, so please, use a good cable, maybe a 20AWG or similar, or just get the official power supply. The take away is that not any USB charger is going to work properly, even if it is 2.5A 5V.
Add this to was we saw in the last section and we can begin to see the big picture. Most users are running their devices undervolted, and the GPU is hiding this from them, so they are actually running underclocked at 600MHz, almost as bad as the original ARMv6 pi.
In many cases not even the GPU efforts are enough and the system randomly fails or just hangs. This mostly happens under load which is when the transistors require more power. Then, the user goes to the forums and complaints: my power supply is just fine, I just ran this and that and it didn’t fail. Of course this is not true, but often they won’t believe it.
In my opinion this is what the Japanese would call Poka Yoke, in other words, we should design our systems in order to prevent the user to shoot itself in the foot, by design. Again, the official power supply is very good quality for the price and I highly recommend it.
I don’t like that they throttle the board silently outside of my control. I would rather have the system hang so I can realize what is going on and replace the PSU than to fool users and have them complaint in frustration all over the internet. It is hard to imagine a reason why the developers of the Pi would do this if it is not to hide the Poka Yoke issue.
Checking for power issues
It took too long, but we finally have this logged in the Linux Kernel. If you see in your system logs
kern :crit : [ 1701.464833 2.116656] Under-voltage detected! (0x00050005) kern :info : [ 1707.668180 6.203347] Voltage normalised (0x00000000
, then you are suffering from undervoltage. It is nice that at least Linux logs this information now, but if we want to get more information, we have to access the GPU directly.
The vcgencmd command is able to communicate with the ThreadX firmware to get information about the system, or to change settings.
# vcgencmd get_config int
We can use the vcgencmd measure_clock arm and vcgencmd measure_volts commands to read the real frequency and voltage. This is an example output from a moritoring script by tkaiser.
# With a crappy PSU and/or Micro USB cable output looks like this # 44.0ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.2V # 44.5ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.2V # 44.0ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 44.0ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 44.0ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 44.5ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.2V # 45.1ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # With an ok-ish cable it looks like this (when running cpuburn-a53): # 48.3ʼC 1200 MHz 0000000000000000000 1.3312V # 48.3ʼC 1200 MHz 0000000000000000000 1.3312V # 48.3ʼC 1200 MHz 0000000000000000000 1.3312V # 48.3ʼC 1200 MHz 0000000000000000000 1.3312V # 50.5ʼC 1200 MHz 0000000000000000000 1.3312V # 56.4ʼC 600 MHz 0000000000000000000 1.2V # 54.8ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 55.3ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 55.8ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.3312V # 53.7ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 51.5ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 51.0ʼC 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # And only by bypassing the crappy connector you can enjoy RPi 3 # performing as it should (please note, thereʼs a heatsink on my RPi # -- without throttling would start and then reported clockspeed # numbers start to get funny): # 75.2ʼC 1200 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3250V # 75.8ʼC 1200 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3250V # 75.8ʼC 1200 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3250V # 76.3ʼC 1200 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3250V # 76.3ʼC 1200 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3250V # 73.6ʼC 1200 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3250V # 72.0ʼC 1200 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3250V # 70.4ʼC 1200 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3250V # Now with a pillow on top for some throttling: # 82.2ʼC 1200/ 947 MHz 1110000000000000010 1.3250V # 82.7ʼC 1200/ 933 MHz 1110000000000000010 1.3250V # 82.7ʼC 1200/ 931 MHz 1110000000000000010 1.3250V # 82.7ʼC 1200/ 918 MHz 1110000000000000010 1.3250V # 82.2ʼC 1200/ 935 MHz 1110000000000000010 1.3250V # 79.9ʼC 1200/1163 MHz 1110000000000000000 1.3250V # 75.8ʼC 1200 MHz 1110000000000000000 1.3250V # And here on RPi 2 with crappy USB cable and some load # 50.8ʼC 900 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3125V # 49.8ʼC 900 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3125V # 49.8ʼC 900/ 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 49.8ʼC 900/ 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 48.7ʼC 900/ 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 49.2ʼC 900/ 600 MHz 1010000000000000101 1.2V # 48.7ʼC 900 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3125V # 46.5ʼC 900 MHz 1010000000000000000 1.3125V # The funny thing is that while the kernel thinks itʼs running # with 900 MHz (performance governor) in reality the ʼfirmwareʼ # throttles down to 600 MHz but no one knows :) Conclusion
I think that the Raspberry Pi has been a very important event in the history of SBCs but today it falls behind in quality, performance and transparency. There are other affordable alternatives out there where developers have given more consideration to those issues.
Despite all this, I am using the Raspberry Pi as a means to reach my goal of helping people self host their personal cloud services, and given how popular this board is, it still makes sense for me to support it as long as it is useful towards that purpose.
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On a essayé divers jeux. Les Marios et Sonic c'est toujours un grand succès. (c'est bizarre dans ma mémoire on pouvait jouer à Sonic à deux en même temps).
Je suis surpris de voir que ma fille accroche bien aux jeux de plate-forme bien pixellisés. Le fun n'est pas proportionnel au nombre de pixels ^^
Il faudra que j'essaie des shaders comme hq4x (il y en a des tonnes fournis)